Set out ready for use:
Towel / cape
Tissues
Cotton buds
Cotton wool pads
Eyebrow Brush
Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.
Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.
Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.
Conceal the natural eyebrows with Eyebrow Plastic.
Grimas Eyebrow Plastic is a transparent wax that is used for covering up eyebrows. The texture adheres to the skin well and remains elastic.
Use the convex rounded side of the Derma Wax Spatula to take the Eyebrow Plastic out of the jar. By scraping it out, you already make the texture a bit flexible.
Thick eyebrows: comb the eyebrows against the direction of the hairs with an eyebrow brush. Then use the brush to apply Eyebrow Plastic against the direction of the hairs, after which the brush can be used to smooth the hairs in the natural direction. Eyebrow Plastic can then be applied as per the technique for thin eyebrows.
Now apply a base using Crème Make-up Pure. Apply the make up on top of the Eyebrow Plastic too.
Take the Crème Make-up Pure out with a clean spatula and work from the spatula. Apply it with a slightly damp latex sponge or make-up sponge onto the skin. Work the base out properly, up into the hairline, and do not forget the ears and neck. This is how you avoid a mask-like effect.
The waxes and oils allow Crème Make-up Pure to be blended away easily, making it excellent for highlights and shadows, both for beauty (shaping, modelling) and theatrical purposes (ageing, creating various characters, effects).
You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside.
If you extend sharp lines, for example by extending the naso-labial fold line downwards, this will give a negative and even rather mean effect. You draw the dark corners of the mouth in the downward direction. The sagging mouth expresses dissatisfaction.
On top of the model's own (hidden) eyebrows you apply eye shadow, which makes the eyes appear larger. Eyeshadow/Rouge and Pearl Eyeshadow are very colour-intensive.
You draw the eyebrows and the lines around the eyes with an eyeliner. Because of the oblique shape of the eyebrows you enhance the angry effect.
Scrape a little Grimas Eyeshadow/Rouge loose using a spatula or the back of a brush. Take it up with a brush that has been moistened with Grimas Cleansing Lotion and mix it on the back of your hand. Apply the eyeliner with an MR 1 or MR 2 brush.
Also draw a mouche (black 'beauty-spot') on the cheek.
Take the Lipstick (Pure) onto a spatula (even if you are working from a stick) and apply it with a lip brush. First colour the middle of the lips and then colour the edges, working from the outside inwards.
Crème Make-up always needs to be powdered off. Apply the powder on top of the make-up.
You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff. Allow to settle in and remove the excess powder with a Powder-Rouge Brush.
Scrape the Eyebrow Plastic off the skin with the spatula. Then massage Grimas Multi Remover Pure or Cleansing Cream into the skin and remove the material with a tissue. Cleanse the skin afterwards with Grimas Cleansing Lotion.
The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C. You can also wash the (Velour) Powder Puff in the washing machine.
You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. The Powder and Blusher Brush is cleaned like this too. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.
