PUT READY

Set out ready for use:
Towel / cape
Water bowls
Tissues
Straightener / iron
Scissors
Comb Hairspray
Cotton buds
Cotton wool pads

Do not use ready-to-use cleansing cloths.

PREPARATION

Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.

Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.

Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.

First degrease and clean the skin you are going to be working on with Grimas Cleansing Lotion. Then wipe dry with a tissue.

For a Santa Claus/Father Christmas you use a ready-to-wear beard set. To conceal the edges of this beard set and to create the eyebrows you use pieces of Wool Crepe. You make this beforehand.

CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Hang on the beard round the face and draw the line where it will be glued later on with Make-up Pencil 004. Do not apply make-up below this line to improve sticking power and prevent the beard becoming dirty. You also keep the area where the moustache is going to be stuck on free of make-up.
MAKE-UP PENCIL = Make-up Pencil
For ageing we use Crème Make-up Pure because this works out easily and has good fluidic properties.
Apply a base with Grimas Crème Make-up Pure 1033.
CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure
SHADOWING

Ageing a young face is based on a simple principle. On an older person the skin, where there is little or no bone, is sunken. On a younger person these parts are darkened (shadowed), the skin will appear to be really sunken at that spot.

For ageing we use Crème Make-up Pure because this works out easily and has good fluidic properties. For shadowing a brown colour is used. With Santa, do not apply the lines too strongly.

Depending on the desired effect and the situation (nearby, far off), you can apply stronger or less strong lines.

Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow. You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside. The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side.

Important areas for shading are the eye sockets, the temples, the side of the nose and below the cheekbones. The vertical frown wrinkle and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are also important areas to shadow.

The parts of the face that have not been shaded now seem to have been brought forward.

LIGHTENING

If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward". This too should be done subtly in the case of Santa Claus.
Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose.

Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose.
The eyebag is also lightened a little.
Santa Claus has a red bloom because of the cold outside air.

After shading and lighting out you can apply fine red veins using a Stubble Sponge. You squeeze the stubble sponge, press it onto the make-up (dark red colour), test it on the hand and apply it to the cheeks and nose.

Do not make the nose too red, as this gives the effect of a drunkard.

For concealing the edges of a Father Christmas (Santa) beard set, we recommend: colour no. 2 (light blond) for a buffalo-hair of cream-coloured beard set and colour no. 1 (white) for a white (synthetic) beard set.
To get a better contrast on the photos a dark-coloured Wool Crepe is used for this example.

Pulling Wool Crepe loose
Pull two braids of about 20 cm Wool Crepe loose from the strings around which they have been wound. If you feel resistance, you cut the strings loose so that you can continue.

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Pull the start of the straight-edge cut pieces loose, so that their ends become fluffy.
Straightening
Straighten out the parts you are working with, using a curler, styling tongs or an iron (on the 'wool' setting). Do not pull it too hard so the braids remain intact.
Pull gently to the right length
Now make the pieces that you are working with longer and looser: run them through your hands and pull them gently bit by bit in the lengthwise direction, but so that the pieces still remain intact.
Make 2 flat pieces
Carry out the following actions twice: pull the loosened piece into two in the middle, in the lengthwise direction along with the hairs; then place the two pieces on top of each other and divide them into two again. Keep the hands about 20 cm apart.
Hold the Wool Crepe against the light to see if there are any dark patches.
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Keep repeating this action until the Wool Crepe is transparent. The pieces get increasingly shorter and thicker.
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
As soon as they have become transparent, shape the flat tuft into a length of 20 to 25 cm and spray it with a hairspray with a strong hold to strengthen the tuft. You can also use plastic spray.
Note: using hairspray or plastic spray on the Wool Crepe will make it inflammable.
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Snip the tufts across width-wise, keeping the scissors at an angle while doing so (obliquely with respect to the Wool Crepe). You now have four pieces for camouflaging the beard set edges.
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
WOOL CREPE

Attaching the Wool Crepe edges

If necessary, the elastic of the beard can be fixed to the hair with hairpins.

Protect the beard set edge with the side of an open hand and apply Grimas Mastix Extra directly above the beard edge (a strip about 1 cm wide) and press the cutting surface/obliquely cut side into the glue.

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra
Protect the beard set edge with the side of an open hand and apply Grimas Mastix Extra directly above the beard edge (a strip about 1 cm wide) and press the cutting surface/obliquely cut side into the glue.
MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra
Protect the beard set edge with the side of an open hand and apply Grimas Mastix Extra directly above the beard edge (a strip about 1 cm wide) and press the cutting surface/obliquely cut side into the glue.
MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra
Press the adhesive edge onto the skin with one hand, and model the Wool Crepe edges with the other hand with the end of a pin-tail comb, working the edges of the Wool Crepe into the beard.

Please note: do not comb!

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Fix the result with a hairspray.
Apply Mastix Extra to the upper lip and to the moustache. Press after approximately 1 minute the moustache into the Mastix and let the model hold the moustache and press on it for a while.
MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra
MAKING EYEBROWS

Pull a braid of about 10 cm of Wool Crepe loose from the strings that it has been wound around. If you feel resistance, you cut the strings loose so that you can continue.

To get a better contrast on the photos a dark-coloured Wool Crepe is used for this example.

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Pull the start of the straight-edge cut piece loose, so that its end becomes fluffy.
Split the piece in two.
Pull one piece loose from the braid.
Pull the piece that has been separated off gently to get it to the right length.
Pull gently to the right length
Now make the piece that you are working with longer and looser: run it through your hands and pull it gently bit by bit in the lengthwise direction, but so that the piece still remains intact.
Pull the loosened piece into two in the middle, in the lengthwise direction along with the hairs; place the two pieces on top of each other and divide them into two again. Keep repeating this action until the Wool Crepe is transparent.
WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
Use hairspray with a strong hold to strengthen the piece.
Hint: You can also use plastic spray for strengthening.
Note: using hairspray or plastic spray on the Wool Crepe will make it inflammable.
Roll the piece in one direction between the palms of your hands and keep spraying in the meantime to get more grip. Continue until the piece has been rolled tightly and has become more like a dreadlock in shape.
Continue until the piece has been rolled tightly and has become more like a dreadlock in shape.
Cut this piece cleanly diagonally.
You now have two pieces that you can make two eyebrows from.
Protect the eyes by closing them and covering them with a tissue. Can cause serious damage to the eyes.

Fix them on top of the natural eyebrows. Apply the adhesive over the own eyebrows. Work from the inside outwards. Press the obliquely cut surface onto the adhesive and work the Wool Crepe eyebrows outwards.

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
You use scissors to create the desired model for the eyebrows.
If necessary, open the structure a little and model them using the end of a pin-tail comb or the back of a brush. Repeat the process of cutting and opening if necessary until the desired result has been achieved.

Hint: if someone has expressive dark eyelashes or is very young, you can make the eyelashes 'colourless' by applying a little Water Make-up (Pure) to them in a light skin colour.

WATER MAKE-UP (PURE) = Water Make-up Pure
SYSTEM PACKAGING = Water bowls
FINISHING

You powder the face off with Grimas Transparent Powder, Fixing Powder or Make-up Powder. Apply the powder on top of the make-up. You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff. Allow to settle in and then remove any excess powder with a Powder Rouge Brush.

Finally, put on the wig and the hat.

= Transparent Powder
FIXING POWDER = Fixing Powder
MAKE-UP POWDER = Make-up Powder
MAKE-UP SPONGE = Make-up Sponge
VELOUR POWDER PUFF = Velour Powder Puff
BRUSHES POWDER ROUGE = Brushes Powder/Rouge
REMOVING THE PRODUCTS

Wool Crepe that has been stuck on with Mastix Extra you remove with Mastix Remover. You can then already pull some of the hairs loose and remove them with a tissue. The remaining hairs and the adhesive you remove with a cotton wool pad and Mastix Remover.
Massage Grimas Multi Remover Pure or Cleansing Cream into the skin and remove with a tissue. Cleanse the skin afterwards with Grimas Cleansing Lotion.

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe
MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra
MASTIX REMOVER = Mastix Remover
MULTI REMOVER PURE = Multi Remover Pure
CLEANSING CREAM / SKINCARE CREAM = Cleansing Cream
CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion
CLEARING UP THE MATERIALS

Store the make-up in a dry and cool place until the next time you use it.

The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C.

You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.


PRODUCTS


CLEANSING LOTION = Cleansing Lotion

WOLCRÊPE = Wool Crepe

MAKE-UP PENCIL = Make-up Pencil

CRÈME MAKE-UP PURE = Crème Make-up Pure

PLASTIC SPATULA = Plastic Spatula

LATEX SPONGES = Latex Sponges

STIPPEL SPONGE = Stipple sponge

MASTIX EXTRA = Mastix Extra

BRUSHES RED SABLE-HAIR = Brushes Red Sable-Hair

BRUSHES RED SABLE-HAIR = Brushes Red Sable-Hair

BRUSHES POWDER ROUGE = Brushes Powder/Rouge

WATER MAKE-UP (PURE) = Water Make-up Pure
= Transparent Powder
VELOUR POWDER PUFF = Velour Powder Puff
MASTIX REMOVER = Mastix Remover
CLEANSING CREAM / SKINCARE CREAM = Cleansing Cream
MAKE-UP SPONGE = Make-up Sponge