Set out ready for use:
Towel / cape
Water bowls
Toothbrush
Tissues
Comb
Cotton buds
Cotton wool pads
Do not use ready-to-use cleansing cloths.
Before starting, you ensure your hands and nails are well cleaned. File your nails if necessary, so that there are no snags. By doing this you prevent damages on the face and risk of infection.
Always work using clean materials (sponges, brushes, spatulas, water bowls) and change the water regularly.
Get the subject to put on any clothes beforehand that have to be put on over the head. Protect your models clothing with a hairdressing cape or a towel.
Ageing a young face is based on a simple principle. Always go along with the features of to the person you are ageing. A pinched face with a clear bone structure demands another approach than a spherical, round face.
Apply a base with Grimas Crème Make-up Pure.
The waxes and oils allow Crème Make-up Pure to be blended away easily, making it excellent for highlights and shadows, both for beauty (shaping, modelling) and theatrical purposes (ageing, creating various characters, effects).
The older skin has a pale colour because of the diminished blood supply. By applying a light, dull base tint (for example OA or 1007) you directly get an older effect. Work out the base on the ears and in the neck.
Take the Crème Make-up Pure out with a clean spatula and work from the spatula. Apply it with a slightly damp latex sponge or make-up sponge onto the skin.
By applying the base on the lips they appear narrower - a trait of ageing.
On an older person the skin, where there is little or no bone, is sunken. On a younger person these parts are darkened (shadowed), the skin will appear to be really sunken at that spot.
For shadowing purposes, dark brown is used.
The more subtle you work, the more natural the result.
You draw the lines with a flat sable-hair brush. By placing it obliquely on the skin you get a sharp edge on one side and a fading effect on the other side. To determine which side should be sharp and which side faded, you start from the centre of the face (nose). Create a fading effect towards the outside. The lines from the eyes towards the forehead (vertical frowning wrinkles) and the naso-labial ('nose-lip') fold are therefore sharp in the direction of the nose and more blurred towards the outside. The naso-labial fold is easier to locate if one grimaces. Bags under the eyes are sharp on the lower side and must be faded towards the upper side.
If the non-shaded parts are lightened, this will enhance the effect of bringing those areas "forward".
Apply white make-up to the higher parts of the forehead, above the temple, next to the frown wrinkles on the wings of the nose and on top of the nose. The eyebag is also lightened a little.
Between the higher parts of the brow some subtle shadowing is done to generate more depth.
You powder the face off with Grimas Transparent Powder, Fixing Powder or Make-up Powder. Apply the powder on top of the make-up. You can do this with a Make-up Sponge or a Velour Powder Puff. Allow to settle in and then remove any excess powder with a Powder Rouge Brush.
Place shadowlines near the neck from the corners of the jaw. These lines nearly come together at the neck. Between the lines you can lighten if needed.
You can create a beard shadow using a Stubble Sponge. Hold the Stubble Sponge between the fingers and compress it slightly, so that it becomes a bit convex. Then work dabbing onto the skin: do not use a brushing motion, since you would remove the structured effect.
You can remove Crème Make-up Pure with Grimas Cleansing Cream, Multi Remover Pure or Make-up Remover. Cleanse the skin afterwards with cleansing lotion.
Hair that has been coloured using Water Make-up (Pure) can be washed with shampoo.
Store the make-up in a dry and cool place until the next time you use it.
The sponges are disposable so you can throw them away after use. If you do want to reuse them, first rinse them under the tap with some soap or shampoo or wash them in the washing machine (in a net bag or pillow case), set to at least 60°C.
You can clean brushes with water and soap or shampoo. Put the moist hairs of the brushes back into shape by hand after washing. Dry the brushes lying flat on a towel and do not place them upright, since that causes the moisture to run down into the shaft.
